At Paris Fashion Week, men’s fashion took a bold step forward as models and guests alike stepped out in heels. From the pumps and slouchy boots on the Vivienne Westwood runway to the chunky loafers worn by rapper and actor Jaden Smith at Louis Vuitton, this trend marks a significant shift in the fashion landscape.

A Historical Perspective on Heels

While it may seem like a progressive move, the history of heels reveals that this was once the norm. In fact, high-heeled shoes were originally worn by men and were a symbol of virility and high social status. The relationship between women and high heels dates back to the 17th century when they became a staple in affluent wardrobes, making feet appear smaller and daintier.

The origin of heels can be traced back to 10th-century Western Asia, where they were designed to help horse riders keep their shoes in their stirrups。Heels were introduced to Europe in the 16th century through trade with Persia and quickly became a status symbol. Wealthy European men wore two types of heels: stacked leather for practical riding boots and leather-covered heels for more lavish court styles.

One of the most famous depictions of men’s heels is seen in Hyacinthe Rigaud’s 1701 state portrait of Louis XIV, where the French monarch sports dainty white shoes with red heels。Red heels, known as “Les talons rouges,” were a royal status symbol limited to a select group of nobles.

The Shift in Gender Norms

Despite the historical prevalence of heels among men, by the end of the 18th century, a significant shift occurred. The Enlightenment period brought about a new standard of masculinity, characterized by practicality and a move away from frivolous adornment. This shift, later termed the “Great Male Renunciation” by British psychologist John Carl Flügel, saw men abandon vibrant colors, lush textiles, and extraneous adornments.

As a result, heels became almost exclusively associated with women, taking on complex social and political implications. The high heel became a tool to enhance female beauty by making feet appear smaller and more delicate.

Modern-Day Revival and Challenges

Fast forward to the 21st century, and we see a resurgence of men wearing heels. Designers like Rick Owens, with his clear-heeled ‘Kiss’ platform boots, and actors like Jared Leto, known for his disco-ready heels, are challenging traditional gender norms. However, despite these high-profile examples, heels are still not widely embraced by all genders.

Elizabeth Semmelhack, senior curator of the Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto, explains that the current reluctance to embrace heels stems from deeply embedded gender concepts developed during the Enlightenment. She argues that heels worn by men are often seen as a reclamation of historic male fashions rather than a true gender-bending statement.

The Future of Heels in Fashion

The recent shows at Paris Fashion Week suggest that the trend of men wearing heels is gaining momentum。With brands like Dior experimenting with ballet flats for men and Louis Vuitton collaborating with Timberland on chunky boots，the fashion industry seems to be gradually breaking down traditional gender barriers.

However, challenges remain. While taller height is generally considered attractive, and some men resort to shoe inserts or even leg-lengthening surgeries, the taboo around men wearing heels persists. Semmelhack points out that many heeled styles seen as daring on men are not actually feminine but rather a reclamation of historic male fashions.

The history of heels is a fascinating journey through time, reflecting changing social norms and gender roles. As men’s heels make a comeback on the runways and red carpets, they challenge traditional gender norms and open up new possibilities for self-expression. The future of heels in fashion looks promising, but it will require continued effort to break down the remaining taboos and make this versatile footwear accessible to all.