In an industry where the human touch has long been a cornerstone, H&M’s plan to create digital clones of its models marks a significant shift. The Swedish fashion giant announced its intention to generate 30 “digital twins” of real models this year, sparking a debate on the potential benefits and drawbacks of this AI-driven initiative.

The Promise of Digital Twins

H&M’s move into AI-generated models is part of a broader trend in the fashion industry to leverage technology for more efficient and innovative marketing strategies. The company plans to use these digital twins in select social media posts and marketing campaigns, with the models retaining ownership rights and receiving compensation for each use. This approach not only promises to streamline the content creation process but also aims to reduce the need for traditional photoshoots, which can be time-consuming and costly.

The creation of these digital twins involves capturing multiple photographs of each model from various angles and lighting conditions. These images are then fed into an AI system that generates lifelike digital representations. H&M’s business development manager, Louise Lundquist, noted that this new method will significantly impact how the company produces marketing content.

The Human Element

Despite the technological advancements, H&M emphasizes that these digital twins will supplement, not replace, its “human-centric approach.” The models will own the rights to their digital likenesses and can license them to other brands, potentially increasing their earning opportunities. However, concerns have been raised about the broader implications for the fashion industry’s workforce.

Industry Backlash and Concerns

The announcement has sparked backlash from industry workers, particularly those in precarious positions. Sara Ziff, a model turned labor activist and founder of the New York-based non-profit organization Model Alliance, expressed “serious concerns about the use of digital replicas without meaningful protections in place.” She highlighted critical questions about consent and compensation, noting the potential for this technology to replace a host of fashion workers, including make-up artists, hair stylists, and other creative artists.

Paul W. Fleming, general secretary for the UK’s performing arts and entertainment trade union Equity, welcomed the pledge to pay models for their likeness but emphasized the need for widespread adoption of AI protections in union agreements and legislation to protect workers’ rights. He warned against using AI as a means to increase profits at the expense of human artistry and labor.

Precedents and Future Implications

H&M is not the first brand to explore AI-generated models. Jeans-maker Levi Strauss & Co. announced in March 2023 that it would use AI-generated models to “supplement human models,” later clarifying that it would not scale back live photoshoots after facing criticism. In July 2024, Spanish brand Mango launched a campaign generated entirely by AI to promote a new collection of its youth range.

The increasing prevalence of AI-generated models and influencers raises important questions about the future of the fashion industry. While the technology offers new opportunities for creativity and efficiency, it also poses risks for job displacement and economic implications. As companies like H&M continue to innovate, the industry must navigate the delicate balance between technological advancement and the preservation of human creativity and labor rights.

H&M’s initiative to create digital clones of its models is a bold step into the future of fashion marketing. While it promises to revolutionize content creation and offer new opportunities for models, it also highlights the need for robust protections and ethical considerations. As AI continues to reshape the fashion landscape, the industry must ensure that human creativity remains at the center of its endeavors.